you stare at that campus board in the climbing gym and in your mind ask, “i wonder what that’s for?” rows and rows of rungs. in 1988 he created the first campus board in order to train for the world’s first 9a/5.14d route he was projecting called action directe. it was with the help of the campus board and working extreme power dynamic moves with his fingers that he was able to send this route. for full on campus board training with hanging only on your arms, you should be climbing roughly around a boulder grade v5 and climbing for 2 years. but at the same time it’s still good to familiarize yourself with the different tools out there to improve your climbing. and since your feet never come off the ground, this is a very controlled exercise. however, you should always practice open hand crimping to train your hands for good mechanics. you could train with all 4 fingers on or even take your pinky off and train with the 3-finger-drag. you can even do a session of campus board training at the end of your regular climbing session.
you won’t have to take your feet off of the ground for this training at all. alternate the leading hand when you come back to the first rung and do this until fatigue. then bump the same hand back down to meet your other hand on the first rung. jump both hands from the first rung to the 2nd then 3rd and as high as your reach will take you. you can always make it harder by leaning back, dropping your butt, bringing your feet closer to the wall, and adjusting the weight to match what your hands can tolerate. and once it’s too easy, you’re ready to take your feet completely off! for each of the 3 exercises you should be always at your peak performance level. a good 6 weeks of training on the campus board will bump your climbing grade one or two levels for sure. all content within this column is provided for general information only, and should not be treated as a substitute for the medical advice of your own doctor or any other health care professional.
a former climbing coach breaks down the basics of campus board training and shows you how do you want to be able to climb longer boulders? rung, while a beginner won’t get very far if they start off by trying to double campus rungs 1-5. i’m writing for climbers that are just starting off. so, should you even go near a campus board? first-time campus boarders should go once a week, then build up to twice a week . up with variations such as up and downs, where you go up one rung, return to the start ,and then go, campus board, campus board, campus board vs hangboard, campus board training program, best campus rungs. [u’ You will destroy joints/tendons. When you can boulder V4 outside/V6 inside or climb 5.11 outside/5.11+ inside and have hit a wall in progression, this is a good time to start campus training. This applies to a true campus board (wooden rungs that are campused).Jul 17, 2008
campus board training is an excellent way to improve your climbing performance . that only the most experienced climbers should pursue. start with both hands on the same rung. a variety of these grips should be used during a campus board training session to promote strength i have come across a theory from fellow climbers, that when first starting to climb, it is better to begin the video assumes you’ll be starting your campus training on the largest rung. do not campus on the smaller rungs, campus board progression, campus board holds, campus board for power, campus rung dimensions
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