you stare at that campus board in the climbing gym and in your mind ask, “i wonder what that’s for?” rows and rows of rungs. in 1988 he created the first campus board in order to train for the world’s first 9a/5.14d route he was projecting called action directe. it was with the help of the campus board and working extreme power dynamic moves with his fingers that he was able to send this route. for full on campus board training with hanging only on your arms, you should be climbing roughly around a boulder grade v5 and climbing for 2 years. but at the same time it’s still good to familiarize yourself with the different tools out there to improve your climbing. and since your feet never come off the ground, this is a very controlled exercise. however, you should always practice open hand crimping to train your hands for good mechanics. you could train with all 4 fingers on or even take your pinky off and train with the 3-finger-drag. you can even do a session of campus board training at the end of your regular climbing session.
you won’t have to take your feet off of the ground for this training at all. alternate the leading hand when you come back to the first rung and do this until fatigue. then bump the same hand back down to meet your other hand on the first rung. jump both hands from the first rung to the 2nd then 3rd and as high as your reach will take you. you can always make it harder by leaning back, dropping your butt, bringing your feet closer to the wall, and adjusting the weight to match what your hands can tolerate. and once it’s too easy, you’re ready to take your feet completely off! for each of the 3 exercises you should be always at your peak performance level. a good 6 weeks of training on the campus board will bump your climbing grade one or two levels for sure. all content within this column is provided for general information only, and should not be treated as a substitute for the medical advice of your own doctor or any other health care professional.
in 1988 he created the first campus board in order to train for the world’s first 9a/ 5.14d route he was why train on the campus board? simply put, campusing will increase the power in your upper body. when it comes to training one of the most intimidating tools we can think of is the campus board., campus board progression, campus board progression, campus board training for beginners, hangboard training, campus board vs hangboard. [u’ The most common climbingspecific campus exercise is to climb the board, footless, without matching on the rungs. Hold the bottom rung with both hands, then pull up fast and slap up with one hand to catch a high rung. Pull through on this, and catch a higher rung with the lower arm.Nov 7, 2017
campus board training is an incredible way to build strength for climbing. here’s everything you need to know to get a campus board is a slightly overhanging, suspended wooden board with a variety of different-sized “rungs” (i.e. edges) in after a few weeks of training, you are finally able to do it. locking off, you campus smoothly between, advanced campus board training, when to start campus board training, campus board build, campus board training 1-5-9
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